Home Grooming The Companion Old English Sheepdog Clipping & Shaving My Old English Sheepdogs "Basic Information"

Below is just one way an Old English Sheepdog owner gives her dogs a haircut.  The vibration of electric clippers can startle or tickle so dogs need to be slowly desensitized to the process.  Because some dogs are more sensitive to being handled, grooming can be more challenging for some owners.  You need to proceed slowly, respect the dog's limits, praise and reward lavishly so the dog will learn to tolerate it.  Only you know your dog and how he or she may respond.  Seek assistance from a professional if there is any chance your dog could be harmed by it's exuberance or fear or if the dog could display an aggressive behavior. Follow all product safety instructions provided by individual manufacturers.  Try to make grooming a special one-on-one time that both you and your dog will look forward to.   These instructions are offered as-is and without guarantee or warranty.

Click Here For The
Photo Demonstration.

Clippers: Some of the more popular brands include Andis, Oster and Wahl.  You can often find a good set of clippers for around $125-$150.   I've used both the Andis Ultra Edge and the Oster Powermax clippers. Both have two speeds but I seldom need to use the high speed.  I prefer a corded clipper (electric) rather than a rechargeable clipper (battery) because I won't be forced to quit in the middle of a shave-down because my clipper battery has run out of power.

I usually shave a dog on a grooming table but for years I did without.  I've shaved a dog on the floor or on a sheet outdoors on the grass when the weather was nice. I've even shaved a dog down on a bed that was covered with a plastic sheet that I covered with an old bed sheet. You can have the dog lie on his/her side or you can have the dog stand. 

Just a side note...
Coarse dog hair is sharp!  I've gotten it stuck in my skin and feet like slivers and it's painful.  I now wear shoes and a grooming smock!

Shaving Direction:  I usually shave in the direction the hair grows... except when clipping the belly.

Caution: Blades Get Hot! I frequently touch the clipper blade with my fingers or the inside of my wrist to monitor the heat level.  The higher the blade number, the faster they heat up.  So a #10 blade gets hot faster than a #3 blade. If the blade is getting too warm, it's time to either swap the blade for a cool one or use a coolant.

Multiple Blades-  As the blade gets too warm, I replace it with another matching blade.  I set the blade on a cool surface (I like to set it on the tile floor).  When I only had one blade, I would move on to a different part of the dog that won't require that blade while I waited for the blade to cool.
Blade Coolant- I do not spray the coolant near the dog.  They don't need to be breathing the fumes.  I put a grocery bag on the floor, away from the dog, hold the blade over it and spray it in the bag to cool it.

Blade Selection:  Below are links to charts provided by two top blade manufacturers...
Andis Blade Guide- http://www.andis.com/USA/sm_animal/pdf/allBlades_chart.pdf
Oster Blade Guide- http://www.osterpro.com/includes/Cryogen-XBladeChart.pdf

My Preferences-
Body: #3, #4, #5, #6, #7  (#3 leaves the hair longer, a #7 leaves it short, a #10 leaves it super short).  Manufacturers make what's called a finishing blade which I feel is a safer choice for beginners or a skip tooth blade. I now use both.  The skip tooth blade will go through a coat a little easier.
Note: Remember that dogs can get sunburned too and that a longer coat may help protect the skin.
Legs: Scissoring or spring-loaded comb attachments.
I've used a comb attachment over my one and only #10 blade for years and it worked fine.  I later learned that a #30 blade is recommended.  I've tried both the plastic and the stainless-steel combs and  now prefer using the stainless steel Wahl version. They are sold individually or by the set at PetEdge.com.
Private areas: A #10 blade is often recommended. I personally like to use an #8 1/2 or 7 blade.  If you shave the dog's butt area or a female's vulva area too short, you'll likely see them quickly sit down, lick, maybe scoot too.  Shaving them too short will make them uncomfortable for a day or so.  I've done it before and felt bad.  I wash the dog down and apply baby powder to help alleviate the discomfort.  Leaving the hair just a little longer can prevent this problem.  But do not neglect trimming these areas.  They NEED to be kept short enough to be clean... the hair will trap and hold bacteria and smell.  With males, I'll also use a #7 blade except the area around the prepuce opening (the opening where they pee)... I do trim that with a #10.
Pads: Click here for information on shaving between the pads.

I use greater care when clipping the hair on certain areas of the dog's body.  SOME of these areas are pictured with a red highlight but also include the dog's penis, scrotum or vulva.  When clipping, I gently pull or push the skin taut/tight so it won't accidentally get pinch/cut by the clipper blade. The ear fringes. The two ridges of skin in the neck area, under the chin. The front leg armpits. The nipples. The thin flap of skin in the flank area, in front of the hind legs.  The back edge of the hind legs. The genital area and anus- shave carefully around these areas. I try to keep the bottom of the blade in contact with the dog's skin as I clip. I don't want to angle the clipper or the teeth could pinch or cut the dog.  I do NOT run the clipper directly over narrow ridges of skin... I'd most likely pinch or cut the dog with the clipper blade. My objective is to always keep the process pain-free so they'll tolerate it.

I glide the clipper smoothly over the skin, I don't need to apply much pressure.  The general rule is to shave in the direction the coat is growing. OESs can have a wide range of coat texture. If the OES has thin and fine hair, I find it more difficult to get the hair through the blade. Lifting the hair with my hand, a brush or comb helps.

 

Lifting The Hair For A More Even Cut As I run the clipper over an area, I brush the hair in the opposite direction with my hand (or gently with a comb or brush) and go over it again.  The reason I do this is because the hair is sometimes flattened and won't go through the clipper blade.  With a short blade, this may not be necessary.
Kaytee's ready for her haircut. She has soft, fine hair.	The clipper is moving in the direction the hair is growing.	This area has now been shaved one time.
I use a little brush to lift the hair...	then run the clipper over the area again.	It takes off more hair and evens up the cut.

 

Another example:  Kaytee was shaved with a #5 blade on her body.  I scissored her legs, head and beard.  Rounding up the ears.

Click Here For The
Photo Demonstration.

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Copyright 2010- J. Dunne.  All rights reserved.  The photographs and instructions on this page are the property of the author. Do not reproduce or copy without written permission from the author.